Showing posts with label raising chickens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label raising chickens. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 March 2014

The day the chickens stopped singing

By Deborah Lyman


I had several ideas of what I wanted to do when I retired from the military.  One was to have a hobby farm and raise chickens as well as Nigerian Dwarf Goats and miniature cattle.  Well I did get a cow, Dolly, but she is a year old, small, but not miniature, jersey heifer.  Spoiled rotten and I am not sure if she thinks she is a cow, goat or human.  The only one she will let eat with her is Sinbad a withered little Nigerian Dwarf/Pigmy cross.  Everyone else best leave Dollies food alone and relinquish theirs if she wants it.   


I know this is a chicken story so on to them.   I started with several different types of chickens.  I would order hatching eggs off eBay and enjoy watching them hatch and see the beautiful colors of the different chicks.  They would start one color and I would guess almost daily what they would look like when they grew up.  I had so many different color chickens.  It may have been because I love the babies so started incubating eggs and would keep eggs going most of the time so each month I would have a batch.  
 


I would gather white, brown, chocolate color, dark olive green, light blue, light green and even pinkish eggs.  They would give me anything from 6 to 12 eggs a day.  As the winter moved in I expected to get none.  But not my girls they would still give 3 to 8 eggs a day most days.  I would suspect that the fact that I spoiled them and kept heat lamps on for them might have helped.  


One rooster I called pterodactyl (spelled funny but pronounced Terodactyl).  His feathers just above his eyes would stand up (think his mom was the polish) and his feathers were such odd bluish color kind of dark gray with a line running down center from base to tip.  He just looked like a dinosaur something from a prehistoric movie.  Then a few had the coloration of pheasants, some white and some black.  There were even a few red hens thrown in.  I love a very colorful laying flock.


One incident I had with one chicken was a young full size polish hen.  It was feeding time and she was very pushy.  She ended up with a broken leg from being stepped on by Dolly the “little” heifer.  She took several months to heal and she moved into a small coop that was inhabited by a bantam Cochin hen and a Mille Fleur d'Uccle Bantam.  She just walked right in (or hop/walked) to the pen while I was feeding one night and refused to leave.  The three were great together.

Little Ms. Cochin and Mr. D’Uccle were mates.  I did not know that they would bond as closely as they did.  It was the strangest thing ever. The two would never leave each others side more than a yard or two.  If in different pens they would get as close as possible and just sit there until put back together.   Little Ms. Cochin would sit and raise anything and any number of eggs that she could cover when she was as flat as she could make herself.  I never saw a small hen make herself so flat. Lol Mr. d’Uccle was rescued as a very young bird.  He was a little crippled thing when he came to me.  Ms. Cochin took him in as her mate almost immediately.  The D’Uccle could not roost because he had crippled feet but he would be right there under the roost.  He loved it when Ms. Cochin would sit on eggs he would snuggle next to her and help incubate them.  Once the bittys hatched he would even let the little ones use him as a fill in mother when they wanted.  He would be sitting in the pen and suddenly a chick would pop its head out of his back from under his wing.  It was a shock the first time but soon became a common occurrence.

I started getting the Sablepoot/Booted Bantams because I thought I could start raising pure breed chickens.  I kept them separate from the others and it probably was good since the roosters did not like sharing their barn yard.  There would be several “rooster talks” through the chicken wire almost daily.  I soon started incubating the Sablepoot eggs too and at first I forgot to mark them so the hatching time was always surprising.  Of course not all of the little ones will be the color that they are when they grow up so the guessing was on again.  



The pure breed Booted Bantams could not be found in the local area so I would have them shipped.  It took over a year but I had finally acquired a pair of black, pair of blue, trio of porcelain, two trios of mille fleur, and a quad of white and trio of Golden Neck Booted Bantams late in the fall.  I was even contacted by a gentleman in Puerto Rico that wanted to buy my entire last hatch of Sablepoots and have them shipped to him.  I was very excited with the turn of events.


The year before in the spring I was all set to take a hen and rooster to the fair for the chicken show.  So I contacted the state Vet and talked to them about getting certified NPIP.  The lady I talked to basically told me that there was not any reason to worry about it because if I took them to a show they would be checked there.  Well that sounded funny but ok I don’t know everything so I was all ready to go to the show.  NO, that was not meant to be.  The chickens had other ideas.  The rooster somehow ripped off his toe nail (yep blood everywhere) and the hen started molting (feathers everywhere).  All in one night so I figured they had no interest in going to the fair. LOL Well summer and fall came and went as I kept incubating and getting really cool looking chicks from all the mixes.


I decided to get a few of the large hens to sell in the spring once they started to lay eggs.  So I filled the incubator some more to build up the girls so they would lay about the time the price for hens would be good. I had two batches of chicks hatch and I actually had one turn out Silky.  I had not had Silky hens and roosters since I first started and then decided to find them a home so the winter would not kill them with the cold.  I was so excited.  

The group of booted bantams had a buyer and the two batches of full size bittys would be laying in the spring so would go for a good price.  My hobby farm would be doing better.  The chickens might even pay for their chicken feed.  It was really looking like my farm would get off its feet.


Then the other foot came crashing down……. I had several chickens come down with colds and figured it was the changing weather.  Shoot most of us get colds right?  Well soon I had a few that had infected sinus and they would require all but minor surgery to clean the large swollen pockets on the side of their face out on almost a daily basis.  Some took a few days, some never recovered and then others took several months to either heal or pass away.  It was getting so sad.  The last to go this way was a little hen that fought for months and was finally looking like she was kicking the infection.  She just keeled over one night and I found her the next morning.

I started to think about everything that had been happening in the last several months and realized my hatch rate had gone from 80-90% down to less than 25%, and when I lost two roosters on the same night (one was Mr. D’Uccle the mate to the little Ms. Cochin and the other one was the only Golden Neck Booted bantam rooster). I took the two to the vet and asked for him to tell me what the heck it was.  He sent the two roosters to be necropsies at the university. 

In two days my Vet told me that some of the tests came back and the roosters had coccidiosis and I was a little upset but it is something that can be managed.  I started the coccidiosis treatments right away.  

While walking around a store with my mom, cousin and aunt my cell phone rings.  I got the news-----the worse possible news---- they had Mycoplasma Gallisepticum AND Mycoplasma Synovia.   I did not know at the time what those were but I sure do now.  My hope that this illness was going to be a fixable illness died when my local vet said I needed to talk to the government vet.  Which I did right away while the rest of the family continued to shop.

I don’t remember much of the first conversation I had with the State/Federal Vet, but what I do remember was that he used the word eradicate and I did not hear much after that.  The next discussions we had were a lot more coherent and productive.  We talked about any options of keeping any of the birds alive.  I had two batches of babies that had not seen or been in contact with the other chickens.  My little Silky, and all the other babies - the youngest were only a month old.  When I did the research on the diseases I was devastated when I saw the words “horizontally transmitted through eggs” and the only guaranteed method of eradication of the disease was the destruction of the flock.  I corresponded several times as well as talked on the phone but to no avail.  There was no way to save any of the birds.  So the date was set for the people to come out and destroy my babies.  

Taking care of them each day knowing what was going to happen was one of the hardest things I have ever had to do.  I was almost in tears most of the time.  The night before THE day I had to lock the animals in the shed/barn after dark so that the chickens would not be out. The chickens were not happy when they woke to find they were not able to free range.  When I went to let the goats and cow out the chickens tried to rush the door.  It reminded me of something out of a very bad horror movie involving flesh eating chickens or something. At the appointed time they arrived.  I had already told the government vet I would not be able to stay.  He said he understood.  The group of people that showed up with the Vet were nice people and I got the impression they understood I was having a hard time with the situation.  They asked a few questions and had me sign some papers, and then I left.  My neighbor, Dan, stayed in case they needed anything.   Dan later told me the people were not cruel at all to the birds.  They carried the birds like I would and not by their legs.  He said he thought they really seemed to care about the birds and tried to cause as little trauma to the babies as possible.  Not that a situation with strangers dressed in white suits catching them could be totally without stress.

When I came home the first thing I remember was the lack of chicken sounds.  What I remember about my return is that was the day the chickens stopped singing.  

The moral of this very long sad story is to never take anything for granted.  Get the flock tested, when in doubt check it out and NEVER buy birds or eggs from a non-certified flock.  Ideally keep a closed flock.

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The above experience is from Keeping Chickens Newsletter subscriber Deborah Lyman "The last month has caused me a lot of heartache and in a lot of ways I could have stopped it but........ Like everyone else I felt the devastating things only happened to the other guy.  By sharing this experience I hope to stop others from suffering the heartache I have had the last few weeks."

 

Monday, 11 August 2008

Raising Chickens - First Steps

There are many benefits to raising chickens; they can make great pets, they provide natural bug control, they give you several eggs each week (and potentially meat), and they provide endless hours of therapy and enjoyment in watching them cluck and peck around.

For many people, raising chickens is their first step to becoming more self sufficient. Chickens need relatively little care, but there are a few things you may want to consider before placing your order :

Do you have the space : A coop needs to allow at least two square feet per chicken and they will also need a secure run allowing at least three square feet per chicken (the bigger the better - particularly if they won't have a chance to free range safely). Their coop doesn’t have to be anything palatial, but some care will need to be taken to ensure that it is dry, free of drafts and safe from predators.

It doesn't hurt to allow some extra room - you never know
when you might need it!

Do you have the time : Chickens need relatively little care, but they do need to be locked into their coop safely at night, and let out again in the morning. They also need fresh water and feed every day, and the coop should be cleaned out regularly.

Cost : In terms of the monetary cost of feed and bedding, hens usually more than pay for themselves with their eggs (not to mention the enjoyment they bring as pets). The cost of buying or building a coop and run however, may take a few years for them to 'earn'.

How many : How many chickens really depends on how many you think you would like, have the space for, and can look after. Chickens have a group mentality so having at least two or three is better than having just one. With most egg laying breeds you can expect to get four to six eggs per week from each hen (this number will probably decrease as they get older). You don't need to have a rooster to get eggs but if you want one then the normal ratio is one rooster to every ten hens.

Neighbours : Some local areas have rules on keeping chickens so you should always check for any restrictions before building / buying your coop. Even if you are allowed to get chickens, it may be a good idea to have a word with the neighbours first if they are very close by - particularly if you are thinking of getting a rooster.


A Rooster can add a lot of colour and excitement to your flock - but will your neighbours mind being woken up at 5am (or earlier) every morning?

Free Ranging : Chickens enjoy being able to free range, but if they are not in a secure area, and / or you are unable to keep an eye on them, it is not always safe for them to do so (predators, including your local neighbourhood dogs, can make their presence felt very quickly). If you are able to free-range safely then nothing in your garden is safe – they will eat / dig up / dustbathe in everything! If they can’t free range safely then they will need a secure pen – fresh air and exercise is as important to a chickens well-being as it is to our own.

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I have some tips for raising day old chicks here.

Below is a video from keeping chickens newsletter subscriber Carol H of her baby chicks first day :

Tuesday, 17 June 2008

Tips To Keep Your Chickens Cool

Some Ways To Keep Your Chickens Cool
  • Shaded areas
  • Electrolytes in their water (if they are panting / drinking a lot) will help replace the electrolytes they are losing.
  • Fresh water throughout the day (water left out in the sun will soon be warmed, so it is nice to replace it with new cool water every now and then if you can). A few ice cubes in the water can help keep it cooler for longer. They will probably be drinking more than normal so it should be checked on to ensure that it does not run out.

Cool fruits such as water melon, can help cool and
refresh your chickens on a hot summers day.

  • Ventilation in the coop
  • Frozen ice packs - freeze 2 litre plastic bottles of water (or similar) as something cool that can be hung or laid on the floor of the coop or in a shaded area of the run for them to sit by or perch on if they want to (if you can place the bottles in something like a zip-lock bag then they should be kept clean so that they can go back into the freezer ready for another hot day).
  • Cool fruits such as watermelon (straight from the fridge for extra coolness!) will help cool and hydrate your chickens.
  • A fan in the coop. A well ventilated coop may not need a fan, but in very hot weather if there is no air circulation the heat they expel from their own bodies can increase the temperature even further.

Friday, 4 January 2008

Caring For Chicks - A Quick Guide To Raising Baby Chicks



As a general rule it is usually best to keep chicks of the same age together and to only keep as many chicks as there is comfortably room for (bearing in mind that they grow quickly!). The main concerns when raising chicks are proper heat and proper feeding – there must also always be clean fresh water available (not easy to achieve when they tend to like to go paddling in it and perch on the edges!). Heat should ideally come from overhead as that is the most natural method. They also need to be able to get away from the heat if they want to. For the first two or three days the temperature should be around 95 degrees and will be gradually lowered to around 80 degrees by the end of the first week and a half and then continuing to gradually lower the temperature by about a degree a day. If your chicks have not already been vaccinated then medicated chick feed will help protect them against coccidiosis.

Using A Hoop House To Raise Baby Chicks



Related Blog Post : Using a Greenhouse as a temporary chicken house or scratching shed.

Monday, 9 April 2007

Know Your Enemy : Rats

Here is a little introduction to Rats (and a few ideas of how to get rid of them).

Rats are primarily nocturnal animals, so if you are regularly seeing them in the day, it probably means that you have a lot of them. They are not interested in your chickens as such, but they are interested in the food that your chickens are eating. Having said that, they will attack (and kill) chicks, and they will take your eggs if they get a chance to. A rat might attack a chicken, but an angry chicken can be a mighty foe, and it is not unknown for chickens to kill (and eat) rats.

What attracts rats: Food!
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* Make sure you only feed your chickens what they need, to avoid attracting vermin.
* Keep your chicken area clean.
* Collect any eggs as often as possible (as rats will try to steal them).
* If you have a compost bin, don't put any cooked food in it.

How they are likely to get in if they are attracted:
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Rats have razor sharp teeth and have been known to nibble through wire, but they are most likely to try and burrow in, or nibble away at the chicken house itself (if they can get to it).

One solution is to use weld mesh instead of chicken wire, as weld mesh is far stronger and cannot be pulled out of shape or bitten through as easily as chicken wire can be. For added security you could continue the wire fencing down another 12 inches (or more) buried into the ground and then turn it outward 6 inches to help prevent burrowing underneath.

Some people also recommend making sure there's at least a 4" gap between the floor of the shed and the ground as apparently rats can't stand upright and chew.

Getting rid of rats if you have them:
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Some cats and dogs will catch rats for you.
Poison and Traps (available at diy store etc.) - Poison is not a good idea around the chickens if they are likely to find the dead rat or the poison (as they will eat them).

Two old-fashioned methods you might like to try:

1. Mix equal parts of corn meal and plaster of paris and place it in the rat holes. The plaster of paris hardens in the stomach of the rat and is sure death.

2. Old-Fashioned Rat Trap

* Dig a hole and bury a large fruit jug or jar.
* The top part of the jar should be left uncovered, and a hole should be broken in it just above the ground.
*Place some shelled corn in the bottom, put a board on top, and weigh it down.

Check it every few days

(an illustration of the above trap can be found here http://www.self-sufficient-life.com/u.php?6)

Rat Facts:
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A female can produce up to twelve litters of twenty rats a year.
It is estimated that one-fifth of the world's total food output is eaten, spoiled or destroyed by rats. Around 26% of all electrical cable breaks are caused by rats, and they are thought to be responsible for around 25% of all unexplained fires.

Monday, 26 March 2007

Chicken Rearing 101

Your Complete Guide to How Not to Raise Chickens
By Nola Kelsey
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Capon: A castrated male used for meat. [How much could that yield?]
Pullet: A female chicken under one year old.
Hen: A female chicken over one year of age
Rooster: A male chicken over one year of age.

Raising Chickens for the first time can be intimidating. When I first called the Feed Shop, I was trying to sound like a pro. I asked, "Do you sell pullets?" "Yes", the man replied. "Are they all females?" It's been an uphill battle ever since.

Pullet parenthood is as much of an adventure as child rearing, only with more feces per pound of body weight. However, I've been reading quite a bit on poultry matters. [Yes, my coolness just turned over in its grave.] So if I am correct and I am quite certain I am not, here is how chicken rearin' goes.

Go to your local feed store and purchase $10 worth of chicks and $50 worth of food and supplies. Don't forget the water dispensers. Buying the metal ones, never plastic is always advised. Must be country humor. I have yet to see a metal one.

Next, place the chicks somewhere sheltered, like a bedroom closet. Toss in some highly flammable straw or wood shavings and promptly dangle a glowing heat lamp just above them. Note to self: Update homeowner's policy.

For the next several weeks feed them 3 lbs of food per day and remove 4 lbs of sh*t per day from the closet. Despite all logic the birds get bigger. As the adult feathers grow in be sure to clip one of their wings. That is one per bird, not just one wing total. If clipping is done late chicks will nest in your toilet. This is a bad thing.

Clipping can be accomplished by tossing your scissors and your body into the heaping mound of chicks, feces and straw. Grab a wiggling screeching bird from the bile pile. Restrain it with one hand. Stretch the wing out with your second hand. Clip off 50% of the wings outer ten feathers with your third hand.

As the birds grow adjust the heat light temperature down by one degree per day. No, this is not actually possible. That's not my point. You start at 100 degrees for hatchlings then continue down by one degree per day until your bedroom is a minimum of three degrees cooler than the spring blizzard outside your window.

Once you have frozen your ear to your semi-cannibalistic down pillow and the chicks have grown their adult feathers, they can be moved outside to the coop. I estimate the initial closet rearing stage to have taken five years.

Before the move, experience the Joy of Wing Clipping one more time. Feather clipping never works the first time. No one knows why. Still, after all the hassle you probably don't want them to fly the coop in under sixty seconds. Of course, if you're like me, by this time you may be inclined to pack them each a lunch and leave a stack of Greyhound tickets by the open coop gate.

Regarding habitat construction: Hen houses and chicken coops are a competitive art form. There are a myriad of websites showing off architectural designs from Chicken Chateaus to Bird Bordellos. The meticulous craftsmanship makes my own home look like - well - like a chicken coop.

Always fashionable, I went with a shabby chic motif for my coop. The nesting boxes are an eclectic mix of stolen milk crates affixed to the wall by anything in arms reach. As for the coop itself, there is a gift for tight chicken wire which eludes me. Quite frankly, my first attempt at a coop looks like Dr. Seuss dropped a hit of acid, blasted some Jefferson Starship and rolled around on the wire with every Who in Whoville. I think I'll keep it.

Inferior design aside, I ultimately learned a thing or two. The nesting boxes are supposed to be up off the ground. That is correct. For those of you keeping score you just spent two weeks cutting back the birds flight feathers only to hang their houses in the sky. It's just sick.

Higher than the nest boxes, you are to build a roost. This is where the birds crap at night so they do not crap on your breakfast eggs. Of course the roost is usually OVER the nesting boxes, so whatever you do, don't use those perforated plastic milk crates.

For young birds maintain a heat light in the hen house. Then on cooler nights an animal with a brain the size of a bulimic toe nail clipping will make the conscious decision to forgo your nest boxes, bypass the instinctual roost and leap into a tanning bed.

And finally there is the feed regime. I asked several experts and read up on feeding as well. Make sure to give your chickens starter formula, mash, growth formula, start & grow, brood formula, grit, no grit, scraps, no scraps, goat placenta, nothing suggested on the internet, tetramyaicn, no antibiotics, medicated starter, non-medicated starter and never, ever switch in-between.

I may not be Queen of the Coop yet, but I'm working on it. Though I am a zoologist and I still know Birds 101. Here are two myths I can help with. First, you do not need a rooster to get eggs. Most folk, especially those who have never owned chickens, will advise you on chickens. Each will insist you need a rooster for a while to do his manly duties. Then you can slip him in the pot. As appealing as this concept is, your pot is a separate issue.

Roosters are only needed to make fertile eggs. Hens are all that is needed to make breakfast eggs. Fertile eggs are just peachy if raising chicks was such a joy the first time you want to repeat the whole freakin' process. In addition there is always the risk of breaking a fertilized egg open and finding a 50% formed chick fetus hitting your hot skillet. Yum! Years of therapy will follow.

To keep it straight in your mind consider this: You are going about your life. Suddenly massive balls of calcium start stacking up inside your abdomen. Are you going to hold on to them just because you have not had sex lately?

The second bird myth is totally unrelated so I thought I would mention it. Penguins occur in nature from the Equator on Southward. That is down to the Antarctica, not the Arctic! No, they do not hang out with Polar Bears who live in the Arctic. No, you did not see them when you worked in Alaska, in the Arctic. Those were puffins. No, I am not sorry you look stupid to all those folks you told penguin tales to.

Yes, some penguin species even reside on the Galapagos Islands at the equator (Cold weather would kill them), not floating around on icebergs - and not in the Arctic! Yes, I realize my eggs are not all in one basket. Delusional, close-minded people who insist you need a rooster to fertilize your penguin eggs so polar bears won't lose their food supply drove me crazy!

Satirist Nola L. Kelsey is the author of Bitch Unleashed: The Harsh Realities of Goin' Country & coauthor of the wicked political/self-help, satire Keeping the Masses Down. Both are available everywhere fun books are sold. More of Nola's work may be read at: http://www.NolaKelsey.com